in Japan – Le vrai Japon. フランス発見 | Nippon.fr / Mon, 04 Sep 2017 07:29:52 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=4.9.10 Kyoto part 13 (Tango Peninsula) /archives/8201 Thu, 18 Aug 2016 19:56:39 +0000 http://nippon.fr/?p=8201 Continue reading Kyoto part 13 (Tango Peninsula) ]]> The Tango-Hanto(Peninsula) is located in the north of Kyoto Prefecture, thrusting northeast into the Sea of Japan. Today it is a very quiet place, but in the past, it is said to have been very prosperous thanks to active trade exchanges with the continent of Asia.

Ine-cho (Ine Village) gives us some hints about how the people lived their life in the past.

Ine-no-Funaya Houses

The houses are built close to the sea surface of the Ine-wan bay. They are designed for people to have direct access to the sea from their houses. The first floor, it is a garage for a boat !

Marine people were actively sailing for trading in the past, in the 1st or 2nd century, or even before Christ.

There are some restaurants serving fresh seafood at Ine-cho. The one we visited is Heishiro.

Kaisen-Don (seafood bowl) we ate!

Another restaurant I recommend is Restaurant Funaya. This restaurant has a beautiful view over the sea.

Urashima-jinnja (shrine)

The Tango Peninsula has many legends and mysteries, among them the most famous one is the story of Urashima Taro.

A long long time ago, a young fisherman named Urashima Taro was fishing when he found some children torturing a small turtle on the beach. Taro saved the turtle, and the turtle told him it would take him to Ryugu-Jo (Palace of the Dragon God) under the sea. There Taro met a beautiful princess, Otohime, and had a great time.

After spending three days at the palace, he wanted to go back to his village and see his parents and friends. When he told Otohime that he would leave for his village, she was very sad, but wished him well and gave him a mysterious box called tamatebako. She explained to him that the box would protect him from harm but that he should never open it. Taro grabbed the box and left the palace.

When he got home, everything had changed… His parents, his friends were nowhere. He asked people if they knew a man named Urashima Taro, they said that they heard the name and that the man disappeared into the sea 300 years ago! He finally realized that he had spent a lot of time at the Ryugu Palace.

He was so shocked and desperate. Without thinking, he opened the box the princess gave him… and then white smoke appeared from inside. He suddenly became old. His beard and hair turned white, and his back bent…

Usually the story ends here, but some people say the story continues.

After getting aged, Taro became a crane and flew away. He was given eternal life and could see Otohime again.

We are not sure what the real story is like… Maybe true or maybe not… This is why it is mysterious.

There must be a message in the story…
What happened here in the past?

Urashimako (the real name of Urashima Taro?) is enshrined at Urashima Shrine situated in the north of Ine Village.

 

Landscape of the Tango Peninsula

If you have a car, I really recommend going for a drive !!!

Terraced rice fields facing the sea of Japan.

Our old old ancestors were sailing here in boats…

And they may have been enjoying swimming and fishing, too.

Ine Tourism Association (English)
Ine Guide (Japanese)

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Kyoto part 12 (Fushimi) /archives/8188 Thu, 18 Aug 2016 18:25:44 +0000 http://nippon.fr/?p=8188 Continue reading Kyoto part 12 (Fushimi) ]]> Fushimi Inari Taisha

Inari Taisha is located in Fushimi Ward, Kyoto City. It is said to be the most popular sightseeing spot in Kyoto among foreign tourists.

Vermilion:
Shinto shrines are rather colorless,  but Inari Taisha uses a vivid vermilion color. It is shining in the blue sky.

Actually, this orangish red is believed to repel evil spirits, and to prove it, it has been often used for shrines and temples.

But, at Fushimi Inari Taisha, the color has another meaning. It is said that vermilion is the symbolic color to show Inari God’s power.

Also, vermilion is composed of mercury, so it has been used as anticeptics. It means that the color was chosen not only for an evil repellent but also for material protection.

Senbon-Torii:
Inari Taisha is famous for Senbon-Torii. It means one thousand Shinto gates. But! There are about ten thousand gates in reality!!!

These torii gates are placed around the entrance area of the sacred mountain, where gods descend to earth.

The origin of Inari Taisha:
One day, a man named Hata-no-Irogu let off an arrow at a mochi (rice cake). Then, the mochi turned into a white bird and flew off toward the top of the mountain (called Mt.Inari today), and there came out rice plants (稲”ine” in Japanese).  Rice plants grow =” ine nari “in Japanese, and finally shortened to “Inari“.

Access:
there are two train lines. If you take the JR Nara line, get off the train ant Inari Station. If you use Keihan, stop at Fushimi Inari Station. It is about five minutes on foot from either station to Inari Taisha.

At any shrine, please keep in mind that you should observe manners.

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Chuo Main line-Nagano Day 3 (Tsumago-juku) /archives/8150 Thu, 18 Aug 2016 14:44:39 +0000 http://nippon.fr/?p=8150 Continue reading Chuo Main line-Nagano Day 3 (Tsumago-juku) ]]> We continued on the Chuo Line after leaving Kofu City, Yamanashi, enjoying the wonderful scenery from the train window. When we entered the neighboring prefecture, Nagano, more and more mountains came into our sight.

 Tsumago-juku

Our destination was a small district called Tsumago-juku found in Nagiso City, Nagano. To know about Tsumago-juku, you have to understand several terms.

Edo Gokaido(江戸五街道)

Edo Gokaido were the major five routes, which were constructed during the Edo period (1603-1868) to connect the capital of Japan, Edo, with the outer provinces. The Tokugawa shogunate wanted to increase its control over the county.

The Five Routes

・Tokaido: it ran along the Pacific coast from Edo to Kyoto. Today the Tokaido Shinkansen runs on this route.
・Nakasendo: it is also called the Kisokaido, running through the center of Honshu, the main island of Japan, connecting with Kyoto.
・Koshukaido: it ran from Kai Province (Yamanashi) to Shimosuwa(Nagano).
・Oshukaido: it was made in Mutsu Province (Fukushima).
・Nikkokaido: it linked Edo with Nikko (Tochigi Prefecture).

Many post stations were also created on each route for travellers to take a rest, and one of them found on Nakasendo was Tsumago-juku.

These post stations were always full of visitors and prospered a lot, and Tsumago-juku was no exception.

However, as the county was modernized, they were little by little losing popularity. In particular, when the Chuo Main Line railway was constructed, which bypassed Tsumago, local residents were very anxious about their future and started to make an effort to restore its popularity once again by rebuilding historical houses and sites.

Tsumago is the first place in Japan that was considered by the Japanese government as  a Nationally-designated Architectural Preservation Site. Tsumago people are not allowed to sell, lease, or destroy any of their houses or buildings.

Now, let’s take a walk in the protected area.

Luckily there were not many people when we visited there. Usually you see many tourists walking in the street. Better to go on the weekdays.

 

Wakihonjin-Okuya and History Museum

Wakihonjin-Okuya is the house that was used as a subsidiary inn by a daimyo’s attendants. It is subsidiary, so there is a honjin, too (officially appointed inn), but I recommend visiting Wakihonjin because there is a history museum behind it. You can learn a lot about its history.

The guides are very kind and welcoming. The one we had explained many interesting stories in English (for my husband).

The entrance of Wakihonjin-Okuya

At the History Museum, we saw many kinds of objects that explained about the life and people in this region. Very interesting.

 

Hand-made Soba / Yoshimura-ya

There are several soba restaurants if you are hungry! Nagano is also famous for soba (buckwheat noodles).

I ordered “tempura soba” ! It was really good.

 

Souvenir Shops / Maruta-ya 

Nagano Prefecture is a mountainous region, and for that reason people have always benefitted from nature, especially wood. One of their specialties , called Magemono or Wagemono, is a round shaped box made of thin strips of wood. In Nagiso City (南木曽), or the area called Kiso(木曽), Japanese hinoki trees are highly appreciated as a natural resource.

There were several souvenir shops, so I hope you can find your favourite items. We found ours at Marutaya.

The wood grain is really beautiful.

There are no same items.

 

Practical Information

I can’t say it is convenient to travel around in this area because Tsumago is a little away from the Chuo Line. For people who always travel using public transportation like me have no choice but to take a taxi or a bus at JR Nagiso Station. It is a 10-minute ride.

If you want to enjoy yourself in nature fully, maybe you will need to look for a hotel. Hotel Kiso-ji offers a shuttle bus service between Tsumago, the hotel and the JR station. It was really helpful.

It is an all-you-can-eat buffet for both dinner and breakfast!!! As much as you want.

Last, many people also visit Tsumago for hiking. If you have enough time, why not walk in nature!?  You can travel back in time to the Edo Period.

Tsumago Tourism Office (English)

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Chuo Main Line-Yamanashi Day 2 (Kofu City) /archives/8076 Fri, 24 Jun 2016 07:34:01 +0000 http://nippon.fr/?p=8076 Continue reading Chuo Main Line-Yamanashi Day 2 (Kofu City) ]]> Kôfu City is the capital of Yamanashi Prefecture, located to the west of Tokyo. The city has a variety of sightseeing spots and specialties.

History of Kôfu and Shingen TAKEDA

The Kôfu area used to be called Kai Province in the Sengoku civil war period, around the 16th century, when a sengoku daimyo, Shingen TAKEDA, was alive and active.

He was so powerful and strategic that he could obtain a lot of territory in the east of Japan at that time. If he had lived longer, other famous daimyos, like Nobunaga ODA, Hideyoshi TOYOTOMI, or even Ieyasu TOKUGAWA wouldn’t have left their names in the Japanese history… Shingen was born too early.

His motto was” Fûrinkazan(風林火山)”, which means “Wind, Forest, Fire, and Mountain. It is showing his battle standard very well. That is, when you fight, you have to be as swift as wind, as silent as forest, as fierce as fire, and as unshakeable as mountain.

He left many famous sayings.

  • Aim to win before forty years old,
    After over forty try not to lose.
    However, around twenty, don’t win too much.
    What’s important is to pave the way for the future slowly but steadily.
  • Do first what you don’t like rather than what you like.
    That way, you won’t give up or ruin yourself halfway through.
  • It is alright if you win 60 or 70 percent.
    Winning 90 to 100 percent will lead to a big defeat.
  • Said three times and a different word each time,
    He is a person telling a lie.
  • Praised by ninety nine out of one hundred people
    He is not a good person.
  • A man is a castle
    A man is a stone wall
    A man is a moat
    A merciful act brings a man to your side, and a vengeful act causes a man to become your enemy.

Saying all that, Shingen didn’t have a fort. He was protected by his people.

If you are impressed by his words, visit Takeda Shrine(武田神社)! He is enshrined here. It is only eight minutes by bus from Kôfu Station.

Specialty in Kôfu – Hôtô

When you visit Kai-no-Kuni(Kai Province), you must eat Hôtô!

It is a Yamanashi original dish, made by stewing flat noodles and various kinds of vegetables.

Restaurant KOSAKU
It is a very popular restaurant specializing in Hôtô. There are a variety of dishes. You may have to wait at the entrance… When we visited there, we saw many customers arriving one after another. They say it is always like that.

Shingen may have been tasting the same dish, too…

Shingen’s hidden hot springs

It is also said that Shingen had some hidden hot springs in his vast territory, where  he and his followers healed their wounds. One of them is called Yumura-onsen (Yumura hot spring), and today a great Japanese-style ryokan(hotel), Tokiwa Ryokan,  stands there. It is a little expensive, but you can enjoy their prestigious Japanese garden and an open-air bath!

You can walk around freely in the garden.

We stayed in a room with a private open-air bath. It’s awesome to take a bath while listening to some insects chirping. The hot water keeps running for 24 hours, so you can enjoy soaking in a bath anytime.

The dinner is served with specialties of Yamanashi.

And the breakfast is a smorgasbord! You can taste a variety of foods and dishes again in the morning! I don’t remember how many foods there were! It was delicious!!! I had a second or third helping.

I liked the sake I had for dinner at this hotel. It was superb! I asked the waitress about it, and she told me I could find it in the hotel souvenir shop.

Kiyô(貴陽) is the sake made from Japanese plums. If you go to Yamanashi, you should give it a try!

Yamanashi is famous for its wine, too. It is the birthplace of Japanese wine, and there are about 80 wineries, which produce 30 % of Japanese domestic wine. Every year Japan Wine Competition is held in Yamanashi.

Another specialty you shouldn’t miss in Yamanashi is Inden-ya(印伝).

The name of Inden comes from India. In the 17th century, when trading with Spain and Portugal through the East India Company was actively going on, Japanese traders found decorative leather called “INDEYA(応帝亜)” leather, which apparently meant “made in India”.  And the leather was introduced into Japan as “Indo Denrai(来) ” meaning “It comes from India” ー Inden(印伝 ).

In the Edo period, the forefather Yûshichi UEHARA created the original idea of applying lacquer to deer leather, and it is said that this was the beginning of Kôshû Inden. Kôshû is the name of Yamanashi used in the Edo period. Money and tobacco pouches made by using this technique were highly valued among the upper class at that time.

The Inden head office in Kofu has Inden Museum, where you can learn more and see some old Inden items.

Inden-ya

We bought some for our family and for ourselves. What’s good is Inden products won’t get worn out. They always stay in good condition.

I knew about Inden, but to tell the truth, I did’t know it comes from Yamanashi…This region has really a lot of specialties…

Find more information at Yamanashi Tourism Office (English)!

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Chuo Main Line-Yamanashi Day 1 (Lake Kawaguchi and Oshino) /archives/7966 Thu, 23 Jun 2016 10:56:17 +0000 http://nippon.fr/?p=7966 Continue reading Chuo Main Line-Yamanashi Day 1 (Lake Kawaguchi and Oshino) ]]> We took the Chuo Line at Kanda Sation in Tokyo early in the morning and headed for Kofu, Yamanashi. This railway line is very long connecting Tokyo and Nagoya, and we stopped at Kofu City and then Nagiso in Nagano during out trip.

Yamanashi Prefecture is located to the west of Tokyo, very famous for Mt.Fuji. Every year and all year round many people visit this area for many kinds of activities.

Kawaguchi-ko (Lake Kawaguchi)

Our first destination was Lake Kawaguchi. It is one of the five lakes (called Fuji-goko, literally meaning the five lakes of Fuji), situated at the foot of Mt.Fuji. These lakes were created by volcanic activities, and each one has its beautiful and unique landscape.

The reason why we chose Lake Kawaguchi is its easy access. It is very convenient for someone traveling by train, taking about two hours from Tokyo.

Kawaguchi-ko sightseeing information site (English)

We visited Mt.Kachi Kachi Ropeway. If you are lucky you can see a panoramic view of Mt.Fuji, but most of the time it is covered with cloud…

History of Fuji-goko (Fuji Five Lakes)

Fuji-goko includes Motosu-ko, Shoji-ko, Sai-ko, Kawaguchi-ko, Yamanaka-ko. These five lakes were under the sea about 5 million years ago. That means Mt.Fuji was also hiding under the water…

The Old Izu Peninsula, which was just an island in the prehistoric times, hit the main land as it moved toward the north rinding on the Pacific Plate.

700,000〜200,000 years ago, three volcanoes  started to be active.  Mt.Old Hakone, Mt. Komitake, and Mt. Ashitaka erupted, which generated massive energy.

Old Hakone Volcano lost its mountain peak and formed a lake called Lake Ashinoko, which is another touristic site on the border between Shizuoka and Kanazawa Prefecture, to the southeast of Yamanashi.

80,000〜15,000 years ago, in the location between Komitake and Ashitaka Volcano, where present-day Mt.Fuji stands,  erupted Old Fuji Volcano.

This eruption created two lakes: Lake Utsu-ko (Yamanaka-ko, Osino-ko) and Lake Old Senoumi (Kawaguchi-ko, Sai-ko, Shouji-ko, Motosu-ko).

15,000〜10,00 years ago, along with the continuous volcanic activities of Old Fuji Volcano,  Old Kawaguchi-ko was formed by being blocked off Old Senoumi.

11,000〜7,000 years ago, at the same spot, New Fuji Volcano erupted. A number of volcanic activities contributed to forming the unique natural landscape in the Five Fuji Lakes area.

Old Kawaguchi-ko and Utsu-ko dried up and disappeared, and only Old Senoumi remained.

5,000〜2,000 years ago, as New Fuji Volcano erupted repeatedly, the lava flowed into Old Senoumi and gave birth to Motosu-ko. And Kawaguchi-ko was also made after the river was blocked by the lava.

In AD 864, the lava continued to flow over Senoumi and divided the lake into two parts. One is called Sai-ko, and the other is called Shouji-ko.

In AD 937, another river was blocked by the lava, and it became Yamanaka-ko.

Since 1707, Mt. Fuji has been always sleeping, and these five lakes have kept their landscapes for about a thousand years.

Springs of Mt Fuji – Oshinohakkai

There used to be a lake called Oshino-ko, but it all dried up. But some springs which function as gushing points of subsoil water from Mt.Fuji are found at Oshino Village. The water was used for drinking and agricultural use before, and today this small village attracts a lot of tourists.

The water is really clear, and they say it is like fish are flying in the sky!

Oshino Navi (English)

Oshinohakkai is also part of the World Heritage site registered In 2013, under the name of Fujisan, sacred place and source of artistic inspiration.

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Tajima (Mikata-gun/Tajima Beef) /archives/6782 Tue, 09 Sep 2014 14:27:28 +0000 http://www.nippon.fr/?p=6782 Continue reading Tajima (Mikata-gun/Tajima Beef) ]]> History of Tajima Beef

My hometown is famous for good seafood and soba, but we also have excellent beef, called Tajima-gyû (/Tajima cattle), which is categorized as one of the types of black Wagyu (Japanese cattle).

Have you ever heard of Kobe beef? I have seen some reports that Kobe beef is becoming popular in France. It’s one of the most expensive types of black Wagyu in Japan or maybe worldwide. Well, Kobe beef actually refers to special cuts of Tajma beef!

Since the ancient times Tajima cattle have been raised by Tajima people. In a Japanese history document, called Shoku Nihongi, completed in 797, it is written that Tajima cattle were very useful in cultivating the fields, and good to eat. This implies that people were eating beef at least in the Medieval period in Japan.

Tajima ushi (cow) is rather small but very strong, and, additionally, it lives long and has a high reproductive ability. This is why it has been very popular among Japanese people.

When the Meiji period started, Tajima beef was becoming known as Kobe beef, because foreigners living in the Kobe foreign settlement found the beef delicious and started to enjoy the meat. Then,  foreigners in other settlements, such as in Yokohama, who learned the beef in Kansai was excellent, ordered more beef from Kansai (the west Japan) by way of Kobe. Then, without knowing the beef actually came from Tajima, they started to call it “Kobe beef”.

In other words, my region is the origin of world-famous “Kobe beef”!!!

 

Where to taste it? 

There are many restaurants and onsen ryokans (hot spring inns) serving Tajima beef, but I recommend tasting Tajima beef at Restaurant Hamada.

Tajima Beef Hamada  Homepage :
1436-3 Yutani Shin-Onsen-cho Mikata-gun

They serve Tajima beef steak and Japanese-style BBQ called “yakiniku”, and their beef all comes directly from their farm. It is soooo…. good. You even don’t need a knife to eat the steak they prepare. It is really tender and juicy. My husband said it was the best beef he had ever had, and I agreed.

Look, this steak! Delicious !!!

Japanese BBQ: Can you see how Tajima beef is. It is well-marbled.

And, to finish, we ordered, “Tail Soup.” This is a must-try. It is really good. A big piece of tail meat is in it, and it gives excellent “dashi (broth)”.

 

Where to see Tajima cows?

Tajima Bokujo Kôen  Homepage:
This park is operated by Hyogo Prefecture, so it is all for free! In a big field, you can have a picnic, play catch balls, or take a nap, whatever you want. At the museum of Tajima ushi,  you can learn its history too. You can enjoy many activities!

It is a little away from the park facility, but there is also a cow shed. You can have a close look at the Tajima cows.

Another activity I recommend is to take a ski lift to get to the top of the hill in the park, where you have a panoramic view.  There are many mountains and valleys around this area, and these geographical features allow Tajima cows to keep their advantageous characteristics without transferring them to other breeds. Tajima cows are protected in Tajima nature.

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Tajima (Toyo-oka city) /archives/6729 Tue, 09 Sep 2014 10:54:43 +0000 http://www.nippon.fr/?p=6729 Continue reading Tajima (Toyo-oka city) ]]> Tajima Region (但馬地方): Tajima is the name given to the area situated in the north of Hyôgo prefecture. It faces the sea of Japan in the north, and borders on Tottori prefecture in the west and Kyoto prefecture in the east. The area is as vast as the whole area of Tokyo.

Blessed in great nature, Tajima includes two national parks and four prefectural parks.  Many mountains, rivers, hot springs, and beautiful beaches… you can find many things in this region.

The Tajima area is divided into 5 zones:
Toyo-oka city / Yabu city / Asago city / Mikata-gun Kami-cho / Mikata-gun Sin-Onsen-cho

Toyo-oka city (豊岡市) is one of the sub-divided zones in the Tajima area, two and a half hours away from Kyoto, Osaka and Kobe, and almost 6 or 7 hours away from Tokyo, by train. You can imagine how much nature we have in this region. The city area stretches widely from the sea of Japan (162.35km2), including many sites seeing spots. The major tourist places are Toyo-oka city (豊岡), Kinosaki Town (城崎), Takeno Town (竹野), Hidaka Town (日高), Izushi Town (出石), and Tantô Town (但東). Each town has its specialty.  If you are looking for a place where you can relax in nature, my hometown should be on the list of your next trip.

Toyo-oka  Area(豊岡):
First of all, I want you to know how peaceful the life in Toyo-oka is. It is surrounded by mountains, and the Maruyamagawa River runs through it. I love the area called “Roppo Tango” (Roppo rice field area). There are many kinds of animals and insects living here.  My husband and I go for a walk every time we visit Toyo-oka.

・ Toyooka City Official Website (English)
Toyo-oka Tourism Association(Japanese)

What are the features of Toyo-oka city?
Toyo-oka has two other names for its specialties. One is “A Town of Bags.” There are many factories and shops dealing in bags in Toyooka. Its history is very long, dating back to the 10th century, when 10 baskets woven out of osiers in Tajima were sent to Shosoin, the treasure repository in Nara. This tradition has been handed down generation after generation, and today it remains as a form of modern fancy bags.

Museum of bags (the history of bags/Japanese)

Of course we have Toyo-oka brand bags. 100% made in Japan!

Toyo-oka kaban (bags) official HP

There is also a street called Kaban Street, where several shops specializing in Toyo-oka kaban. Or if you want to see more products, you should visit bag factories, like Kaban no Yakata ( Kaban House). They are always welcoming many tourists.

To prove how much this industry has contributed to this city, I should mention a festival called Yanagi Matsuri (willow festival), which is held every summer, on August 1st and 2nd. On the 2nd there is a fireworks event.

The other name Toyo-oka city has is “A Town of Storks.” Strictly speaking it is an oriental stork (not just a white stork). The bird is registered as a national natural monument and the symbol of Hyogo prefecture. In the past, they were everywhere in Tajima, but due to industrial development, they disappeared in the 1970s.

But today Toyo-oka people are working very hard to bring these birds back to nature once again. They have succeeded in breeding this species artificially, and more and more storks are seen in the sky of Toyo-oka city. I often see a few storks flying and walking around the river and in the rice field. They are very beautiful! To make them prosperous again,  Toyo-oka also has to think a lot about the environment. It is considered to be an eco-city. This is why my hometown has been drawing much attention from all over Japan.

 

Kô-no-tori no Sato (コウノトリの郷公園/Park of storks) is the place where these storks are taken care of. There is a small museum, and you can learn about the history of Toyo-oka people and these birds. You’ll see many storks are resting here tranquilly.

And if you have time, you should visit a souvenir shop, Kô-no-tori Honpô. They sell local  original gifts products, and also serve you drinks and light meals. I recommend their cheese cake made from rice flour called “Kônotori rice”.

Park of storks (the history of storks/Japanese)
Kô-no-tori Honpô ( a souvenir shop and a cafe in the park of storks)

 

Hidaka  Area (日高エリア):

Hidaka (日高町) is known for having many ski grounds called (Kan-nabe kogen ski grounds/神鍋高原スキー場), and its history dates back to the Taisho period (1912-1926). Every winter many ski lovers visit here.  But lately people also come to this region to enjoy summer activities, such as paragliders, golf, and tennis. It is busy all around the year today.

My favorite activity here is hiking in the summer. Mt.Kan-nabe (神鍋山) is the mountain formed by the volcanic activity 20,000 years ago, and the molten lava also created valleys.

Ase keikoku (阿瀬渓谷)is one of the examples, as such a valley.

I love walking in the mountain in the summer.

Calm and quiet….

The water is clear and the air is fresh.

There are several hiking courses.

 

Kinosaki Area (城崎エリア):
Kinosaki is one of the most famous onsen resort areas in Japan. People are walking in Yukata here, Japanese traditional kimono-like wear for the summer. The landscape is really like a picture. A small river, which runs through the town, is lined with Yanagi (willow) trees. Imagine the view. You will feel like you are traveling through time. Their speciality, fresh seafood, is also served at a ryokan hotel (Japanese-style inns with a hot spring bath). This is a must-go.

Some hotels are super rich, but some are reasonable. You can find a variety of hotels.

Mikiya ryokan has a long history. They started business in the Edo Period, and it is known for a famous Japanese novelist who wrote “Kinosaki ni-te” (At Kinosaki). He was staying at this hotel. Tsutaya ryokan also has its history. Katsura Kogoro, in the last days of the Tokugawa Shogunate, was hiding in this ryokan (see page for Hagi).
Mikiya Ryokan (Englsih)
Tsutaya Ryokan (Japanese)

kinosaki

kinosaki

In the street there are some spots called “Ashi-yu“,  where you can put your feet in the onsen water for free! It’s very relaxing.  You can also find the source of the hot springs at back of the town.

There are 7 main hot springs called “Soto yu” which are available for all visitors including day trippers (800 yen), and each one has different effects. Check them out at the official site.
Kinosaki Tourist Association (English)

ashiyu

spa

There’s a cable car going up to the top of the mountain, where you’ll have a panoramic view of Kinosaki Town.

Kinosaki Cable Car (Japanese)

Genbudo (玄武洞):
This is a national natural monument. Genbudo is a cave formed in the Genbugan rock (basalt). About 1,600,000 years ago magma erupted and then was cooled down. In this process a mass of Genbugan was formed. Then, due to erosion about 6,000 years ago, this mass was exposed outside. Afterwards people started to exploit the rock and these caves were made. So they are not natural, but actually it’s a site of mining.

In the past, people used the stone blocks to build the base of the castle. Today you can still find some houses using the same technique in this region. You can get more information at Genbudo Museum (Japanese) .

Oh, and a little more drive will take you to a big aquarium, Kinosaki Marine World.

There are also many seafood restaurants in Kinosaki. The one I often visit is Umi no Ie restaurant. They serve nice seafood dishes, and you can also enjoy shopping for some seafood products.

Enjoy Kinosaki!

 

Izushi  Area (出石エリア):
This town is called a small Kyoto because there are many temples, and the landscape reminds you of  the old times of Japan. It is like a miniature of Kyoto. You can find the ruin of Izushi castle, and from there you can see a panoramic view of Izushi Town. The specialty of this town is soba (buckwheat noodles). When you visit Izushi, you will be surprised to see so many signs of soba shops.

Izushi Tourist Association (Japanese)
Soba Association (Japanese)

The history of Izushi:  In the Muromachi period (1336 – 1467), the Yamana clan was very powerful in the San-in region, where Izushi is, and Yamana Tokiyoshi built Konosumiyama Castle in 1372.  The Yamana Family resided at this castle for more than 200 years, but Hashiba Hideyoshi (later Toyotomi Hideyoshi / 1536 – 1598) attacked this castle in 1569. Yamana Suketoyo built another castle, Ariko Castle, at Mt. Ariko, but this one, too, fell to Hideyoshi.

For a while, the castle keepers maintained Ariko Castle, but Koide Yoshimasa became the lord. He was a daimyo in the Warring State period ( the late 15th – the late 16th century) and  was also Hideyoshi’s cousin. The Koide clan divided the family in two for the Battle of Sekigahara (the battle between the east squad/Tokugawa and the west squad/Toyotomi). This way they thought the Koide clan would survive, whichever side won. Koide Yoshimasa was on the side of Hideyoshi, and his brother Hideie fought for the east, Tokugawa. The result was the victory on the side of Tokugawa Ieyasu. But thanks to Hideie’s achievement, Yoshimasa’s support for the west squad was not blamed. Their land was also guaranteed.

In 1604 Ariko Castle was abolished by Koide Yoshihide, and Izushi Castle was built. And at this time the castle town was developed.

In 1696, when Koide Fusatsugu died at age three, the family had no more heir. Then Matsudaira Tadachika was sent to take the place of the Koide family. Furthermore, in 1706, when Tadachika was transferred, Sengoku Masaakira came from the Shinano Region, present-time Nagano prefecture, to become the new lord.

The Sengoku clan resided in Izushi until the Abolition of the Han System (feudal domain).

It is said “Izushi soba” was brought from the Shinano Region by the Sengoku clan. And today there are everywhere soba shops in this town!

Every time we go back to Japan, we go to eat soba. I recommend some good restaurants we visited (and most likely revisit). Good services and atmosphere. Izushi is also famous for Izushi-yaki (Izushi ware). The soba is served on these Izushi-yaki dishes.


Restaurant Soba-sho
Official site of Soba-sho


Fresh wasabi !!!

You pile up the dishes like this. If the hight of the pile  is longer than the length of your chopsticks, it means you’ve had enough! Ours is always much higher.

Mori-No-Yakata (森の館)
Official site of Mori-No-Yakata

If you want to try soba making, visit “Mori-No-Yakata”! It will be a great experience! After taking a soba workshop, the owner boils the soba and serves it to you in the restaurant situated next to the atelier.

He also gives pottery classes.

You can create what you like. The master teaches you kindly the basics and the techniques necessary for each step. The lessons are available for all ages. Why don’t you create one as a souvenir gift!

After eating delicious soba, it is time to enjoy shopping!

A big clock tower called Shinkoro stands in the center of the town. Originally Izushi people heard a sound of the drums from the tower, which indicated that the lord of the castle was present. The clock was actually added later after some episode.When a doctor in the town became severely sick, many Izuhshi people prayed devotedly for his recovery. When the doctor got well, he wanted to show his gratitude to the people and presented the clock to the town. It was 1881.

At Izushi sake brewing house, they sell local sake, Sasazuru (114-1 Uoya Izushi Toyo-oka). They say that the color of the sake storehouse changes according to the season.

Tajima-no-Sato (但馬の郷) is a unique shop in Izushi. They sell a variety of pork products, such as ham and sausage. They are really delicious. They’ve got a gold award at an international sausage contest! More info at their Homepage.

 

 

Takeno Area (竹野エリア):
Takeno is located by the sea of Japan. It is known for its beautiful beach. Every summer there are many people enjoying swimming and camping here.

 

Kaeru Island (Frog Island):  Can you see it?

Hasakari Iwa :  Hasakari is a Tajima dialect meaning ‘stuck’. A rock ball is stuck in the rock towers.

San-in beach National Park (山陰国立公園) :
Among popular spots, many people like to go to Takeno beach.  Takeno village has a lot of nature and is one of the most popular vacation destinations among Japanese people. This area has a nice beach, a camping site, and many other recreation facilities.

 

And my recommendation is to stay at Takeno-Kaigan National Park Resort Inn.

National Park Resort Villages (NPRV) is not another chain of resort hotels. Their 36 inns or villages are favorably situated within the territories of National Parks. NPRV is a facility where you can stay longer, get close to vast wilderness and have fun in a variety of recreational activities. NPRV is open to everyone. Why not find a destination of your choice and have a great holiday. NPRV is operated by National Park Resort Villages of Japan, a foundation supported by the Ministry of the Environment.

National Park Resort Villages
(English)

The room rate is reasonable and they have a great view. Here are some photos I took at Takeno Kaigan Notional Park Resort Inn.

The interior of the Inn

Tokose soba (床瀬そば):

Tokose soba is another good address for you. I really recommend it. They serve not only fresh soba but also a variety of traditional dishes. It’s 100% homemade cuisine using foods in season and local products! They have no tables, no chairs. You sit around “irori” (fireplace)! Really nice atmosphere. The access is a little difficult because the restaurant is located in a really remote area. It really stands in nature. Find this secret soba shop!

Tokose soba (another soba shop recommended / You can see some photos on their HP.)

soba

soba

There are more coming up in the future!!! To be continued.

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Kyoto part 11 (Nijô Castle area) /archives/6702 Mon, 08 Sep 2014 08:10:57 +0000 http://www.nippon.fr/?p=6702 Continue reading Kyoto part 11 (Nijô Castle area) ]]> Nijo-jo (二条城) is the castle constructed by the Tokugawa clan during the Edo period. It is registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site as part of the ‘Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto.’

History:

After the victory of the Battle of Sekigahara in 1601, Tokugawa Ieyasu planned to build a residence castle in Kyoto, and started to remove townhouses. The  daimyo (Japanese feudal lords) of the western provinces, who were on the side of the Toyotomi clan in the Battle of Sekigahara, had to pay the cost of construction and give their services as laborers .

The castle was completed in 1603, and Tenshu ( the keep of a castle) was in 1606.

In 1611, the meeting between Ieyasu and Toyotomi Hideyori was held at Nijo-jo. Hideyori is the successor to Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the former ruler of the nation. Ieyasu was surprised to see that Hideyori had grown as a charismatic man, and he felt a sense of danger that the Tokugawa clan might be overthrown by the Toyotomi clan. It is also said that it was at this time when he decided to bring down completely the Toyotomi family.

Nijo-jo was used by successive Tokugawa Shoguns, but after Tokugawa Hidetada died, in 1634, this castle vanished from the center stage of history, for almost 230 years.

The 14th Shogun, Tokugawa Iemochi , visited Kyoto in 1863, and the castle was renovated for his stay. In those days Japan was in great political disorder because there was a lot of pressure from foreign countries. He was requested by the Imperial Court to exclude foreigners, and also had to make the Choshu Conquest to subjugate the Emperor’s enemy Choshu Domain (present-day Yamaguchi prefecture).  He moved to Osaka Castle to take command of the conquest, but he fell sick and died there.

In 1866, Tokugawa Yoshinobu accepted the appointment of the 15th Shogun at Nijo-jo after being persuaded by the Shogun cabinet and the Imperial court.

But the conditions were getting more and more unfavorable to the Tokugawa government, and in 1867 Yoshinobu transferred ruling power back to the Emperor at Nijo-jo.

Nijo-jo Castle has seen many historical events.

 

Daruma-dera (達磨寺)

You stop at Enmachi Station (円町駅), one after Nijo Station (二条駅), on the JR Line, and you will find an interesting temple called Daruma-dera. This temple belongs to the Myoshinji school of the Rinzai Sect. Its official name is Hôrin-ji (法輪寺), but it is better known as “Daruma-dera”.

Daruma is the Indian monk who introduced Zen to China.

Legend has it that Daruma lost his legs and arms because he practiced Zen meditation sitting cross-legged while facing a wall for nine years. And this legend produced “a daruma doll.” It is very popular among Japanese people as a lucky charm. The doll has no arms and no legs, but it never falls even if you push it.

We say, “nanakorobi-yaoki (七転び八起き)”. If you fall seven times, you get up eight times. It means your life always has ups and downs, but you should keep still and be patient even after repeated failures. Fortune comes around.

About 8,000 daruma dolls and statues are housed in the Daruma-do (Daruma hall).

Inside the temple and in its garden, there are daruma, daruma, daruma. It’s very unique.

If only we had so much patience like him…

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Kyoto Part 10 (Kinukake Street) /archives/6662 Sun, 07 Sep 2014 17:59:48 +0000 http://www.nippon.fr/?p=6662 Continue reading Kyoto Part 10 (Kinukake Street) ]]> Kinukake no Michi Street (きぬかけの路) is located in the northwest of Kyoto City, and three world-famous temples stand on this street: Kinkaku-ji (金閣寺), Ryôan-ji (龍安寺), and Ninna-ji (仁和寺). All of these temples are also registered as a World Heritage site. This is the place you can’t miss when you visit Kyoto.

Kinukake no Michi Official Site

Kinkaku-ji (金閣寺)    Kinkaku-ji Official Site

It is a little complicating to explain, but the temple called “Kinkaku-ji is actually named ‘Rokuon-ji (鹿苑寺)“, and ‘Kinkaku’ is the name given to the ‘Shariden, the three-layer lofty building covered in gold leaf. ‘Shariden’ is the hall for placing a bone of the Buddha. It was registered as the Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto World Heritage Site in 1994.

Rokuon-ji Temple is one of the three sub-temples outside the Shokoku-ji Temple site, and was founded by the 3rd shogun of the Muromachi Shogunate, Ashikaga Yoshimitsu.

Originally in this place there was a temple called Saion-ji Temple established by Fujiwara no Kintsune (Saionji Kintsune) in the Kamakura Period (around 1192–1333). He was a court noble and had close connections to the Kamakura Shogunate (feudal government). The Siaonji family prospered during this period, but they went into decline as the Kamakura government collapsed. Then, in 1397, Ashikaga Yoshimitsu took over the land and constructed a  grand residence, called ‘Kitayamadai’, where he obtained political power.

After the death of Yoshimitsu, the whole residence, except ‘Shariden (Kinkaku/Golden Tower), was demolished and reconstructed into a Zen temple, in accordance with his will. And the Zen temple was named after Yoshimitsu’s posthumous Buddhist name, “Rokuon-indono”. It was in 1420.

This is the origin of Rokuon-ji temple.

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Ryôan-ji (龍安寺) Ryôan-ji Official Site

Ryôan-ji Temple belongs to the Myôshin school of the Rinzai Sect.  It is also registered as the Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto World Heritage Site.

This temple is well-known for its stone garden, or Zen garden. The area of the garden is just 25m by 10m, and there are fifteen stones of different sizes, composed in five groups. They are carefully placed on the white gravel, which is raked nicely every day by the monks here.

It is a very simple garden, but, being simple tells more.

The white gravel shows the ocean, and the rocks are the mountains. To make it look like water, “water” is removed. This is the sensibility given to Japanese people.

There are pros and cons, but it is said that these rocks are intentionally placed so that the entire composition can’t be seen at once from the veranda of the temple. You can see only 14 rocks out of 15 no matter which direction you look at it from.

In Japan, the full-moon night is called “jû-go ya (十五夜)”, and jû-go, the number fifteen, is believed to be the complete number. We also say that when something has been completed, it means it has started to collapse. This is why you see only 14 rocks in this garden.

Well, who created this garden? It is unknown…  It is really stirring our imagination, and an ideal place for meditation.

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Ryôan-ji Temple has a circuit-style garden, too. It is really beautiful.

 

 Ninna-ji (仁和寺)   Ninna-ji Official Site

Ninna-ji is the head temple of the Omuro school of the Shingon Sect of Buddhism. It was established in 888 by the retired Emperor Uda. It is also registered as the Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto World Heritage Site.

This temple is well-known for its sakura (cherry blossoms). There are many visitors in spring for the flowers and in fall for red and yellow leaves.

I like the landscape with sand gravel nicely raked. It is great art.

Kinkaku-ji is world famous for its golden image, but you should continue on Kinukake no Michi. You will find more beautiful sites there. Each temple has its beauty.

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Kyoto part 9 (Amanohashidate) /archives/6629 Fri, 05 Sep 2014 11:03:44 +0000 http://www.nippon.fr/?p=6629 Continue reading Kyoto part 9 (Amanohashidate) ]]> Amanohashidate (天橋立) is one of the top three scenic locations in Japan, located in Miyazu Bay in northern Kyoto Prefecture. Amanohashidate, which means “Heavenly Bridge,” is a long sandbar lined with pine trees. If it is viewed upside down, Amanohashidate will appear like a bridge between the earth and the sky. You will find many people trying to see the bridge between their legs with their heads down. This is called “Mata nozoki”. You need good flexibility!

There are two view points situated at both ends of Amanohashidate. One is Kasamatsu Park (傘松公園) on the north side, and the other one is called Amanohashidate Veiw Land on the south side.  In both cases, you use a cable car to get to the top of the mountain, where the park is found.

There is a small amusement facility for children, and a restaurant too. Look, this udon dish has big wakame see weeds!

After eating lunch and trying “mata nozoki”, we went down the mountain and visited Amanohashidate itself.

You can take a walk or ride a bicycle to visit this natural sand bridge. My suggestion is you walk one way and rent a bicycle the way back. It is really pleasant to walk in the pine tree forest. It takes about 1 hour on foot to reach the other side of the sand bar.

Amanohashidate is also a famous place where a great swordsman, Iwami Jutaro, took a revenge on enemies of his father in 1632.

There is a small shrine called Amanohashidate-jinja (天橋立神社) on the pine-tree street. This is one the three major shrines found in this area, and here, Hachidai-ryûô is enshrined.  Ryûô or Dragon King, who is living in the water, is a god accompanying Buddha. Amanohashidate also has some dragon legends.

Long long time ago, it was in the age of the gods in Japan… On the passage for gods dropped the sea. It was Dragon God who made up the “bridge” by piling up soil in one night. And this pine tree passage itself looks like a dragon.

This is how Amanohashidate was born.

Also, by this shrine, you’ll find a well  which contains the water called “Isosimizu”. It has been selected among 100 Exquisite and Well-Conserved Waters. This water is not drinkable, but it is fresh water though it is located by the sea. We use this water to purify ourselves before visiting Amanohashidate-jinja.

There is a nice beach too. Many visitors come here for many kinds of activities. Enjoy swimming and sunbathing in the summer!

About in an hour you’ll reach the other side of the sand bar. From there, continue a bit father, and you’ll find the other two shrines.

 

Kono-jinja (籠神社) Kono-jinja Official Site

This shrine has a long long history. Called also “Moto Ise (元伊勢)“, it is considered to be one of the most ancient shrines in Japan. Moto Ise means a shrine which enshrined the Gods temporarily before they moved to Ise Jingu in Mie prefecture.

Ise-jingu or Ise Grand Shrine is a Shinto complex composed of 125 Shinto shrines centered on two main shrines, Naikû and Gekû. Naikû is dedicated to Amaterasu-omikami, and Gekû to Toyo-uke no Omikami.

Amaterasu Omikami was born as the most sacred goddess. She is the goddess of life and the ancestor of our Imperial Family, and of Japanese people too. And Toyo-uke no Omikami is the guardian god who provides us with food, clothing and shelter. Also, Amaterasu Omikami welcomed Toyo-uke no Omikami to Ise to have her meal prepared. So Toyo-uke no Omikami is the god who gives energy and power to Amaterasu Omikami.

These two goddesses were not enshrined at Ise-jingu from the beginning.

Amaterasu Omikami had been enshrined within the Imperial Palace, but Emperor Sujin ordered Imperial Princess Toyosukiirihime no Mikoto to enshrine Amaterasu Omikami in the Kasanui Village of Wa (ancient Japan), to respect her and to suppress the plague that was killing a number of people at that time. It was in 92 B.C. After that Toyosukiirihime no Mikoto and Yamatohime no Mikoto were traveling around to find the best place to enshrine the Sun Goddess. And finally Yamatohime no Mikoto established Kôtaijingu (Naikû) in present-day Mie prefecture, and this is the origin of Ise-jingu.

“Moto Ise” indicates the shines where the two princesses enshrined temporarily Amaterasu Omikami while they were traveling.

Furthermore, in the age of Emperor Yûryaku (reigns 456–479), Toyo-uke no Omikami was sent to Ise as the god preparing meals for Amaterasu Omikami. And the place where Toyo-uke no Omikami  was enshrined is also called Moto Ise. Toyo-uke no Omikami descended on earth with Amenohohakari no Mikoto, who helped find the best place for Toyo-uke no Omikami to settle. The secondary shrine of Kono-jinja, called Manai-jinja Shine, was chosen for Toyo-uke no Omikami. Since then, The Amabe family, who succeed the bloodline of Amenohohakari no Mikoto, have been in charge of the religious services of Kono-jinja.

Kono-jinja, thus, has been revered as a special Moto Ise.

 

Manai-jinja Shrine (真名井神社)

This shrine is located in the site of approximately 400 meters northeast of the main shrine, Kono-jinja. Here, Amenohohakari no Mikoto came down to earth and enshrined Toyo-uke no Omikami. It is very sacred. The place was chosen because there was pure water welling up here. This water is called “Manai no Mizu.”

No photo within the precincts. Please don’t enter the forest, and please don’t visit there with beach sandals and short pants on. 

 

On the way back, you have three choices, on foot, by bicycle, or by boat. It depends on how much energy you still have after all these visits. We decided to walk again!

There is another place to visit. It is at the starting point of the pine tree street.

 

Chion-ji Temple (智恩寺)  Chion-ji Official Site

This temple belongs to Myôshin school of Rinzai Sect. The principal image of Buddha is Monju Bosatsu (文殊菩薩), a god of wisdom. It is said to have been founded in 808 as a chokugan-ji of Emperor Heizei, a temple built at the order of the emperor.

Chikara ishi (力石)

These stones were used for a festival or gathering at this temple. Men were carrying these stones to show their physical strength. The heaviest one is 130 kg, the medium 100 kg, and the smallest 70 kg. They were competing with each other.

To have a rest, I recommend a nice cafe standing by Chion-ji. Actually, in front of the gate of Chion-ji, there are many restaurants and souvenir shops. Many restaurants serve good seafood dishes. But if you rather wish to have some coffee and cake, visit Cafe du Pin. Their cakes are excellent. I love their rolled cake made from rice flour. It stands by the sea, too.

 

Amanohashidate is located in the north of Kyoto City. You may not have enough time to go so far, but if you have an occasion someday. From my hometown, Toyo-oka city, you can take a direct train to Amanohashidate (Kitakinki Tango Railroad), which runs though several small towns in the Tango Peninsula. It is very beautiful.  I’d also like to visit these small towns someday.

 

Amanohashidate Tourism Office (Japanese)
Kitakinki Tango Railroad (Check their short videos/Japanese)
Tango Peninsula (the region between Toyooka and Amanohashidate/Japanese)

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